Sunday 23 August 2009

Ponies in the Mountains



The Blackall Range in the Sunshine Coast Hinterland is a beautiful place. Perfect for running the Pony in fresh air and winding roads.




Today we took a ride up past wita behind Maleny and discovered glorious views and absolute peace and quiet.





Took a few snaps of the beast with the mountain backdrop then came across some Clydesdales who seemed really interested in our Pony ;-)
More than one pony under that hood!

Tuesday 11 August 2009

Mustang Restorations Project Tail Lights for 67 Convertible

The quality of this video is not so good, but you get to see the way the LED Tail Lights work on the 67 Mustang convertible.

If anyone runs up the bum of the Austang, they're just frigging blind!

Sunday 9 August 2009

Red Pony in a rural setting



Up on the Blackall Range in the Sunshine Coast hinterland



Take a ride down the range in a convertible 67 Mustang!


Saturday 8 August 2009

Putting Aussie blinkers in a Mustang

Check the tail lights on this '67 - look different? Yep that is a yellow lens where the outside red lenses should be and yes, a yellow blinker is flashing on the left side!




Good old Ebay led me to a new blinker set up for Mustangs to give a new Australian or European tail light arrangement. The set I purchased is from a mob calling themselves The Mustang Project and replaces the blinker unit and the tail light set up completely. Instead of bulbs it uses LEDs which are brighter and more reliable.

I pulled the tail lights and put in the new system, but found it gave spurious results. AAAGH why why why?

Pull out the schematics, what a bloody nightmare . . . after a lot of research I discovered the brakes and the blinkers run a signal up the same wire to the same filament. This is because the Yanks used the same brake light as a blinker. Little wonder so many Mustangs have been shunted up the back, in modern traffic it is very difficult to be sure whether the blinkers are on or not.



The power for the brake lights is routed through the blinker switch. When the brakes are on, the blinker switch disconnects the brake light power to that side and applies the power from the blinker unit.

The Mustang Project lights are set up to work on that wiring arrangement. Problem is, my car has been rewired so a separate brake wire is used, thereby creating two independent wiring circuits for blinkers and brakes. This really screwed me , because I paid a heap of dough for the units and it appeared they could not work, unless I worked out how to the rewire the car's tail lights. Quite frankly, having already replaced the blinker switch in the past, a journey back up the steering column filled me with dread.

Unperturbed I told the guy who sold it to me and he referred me to the Americans who made it. I asked them if it could be modified to suit a separate brake wire set up. They were very helpful and told me that they could rewire it to suit my configuration if I paid the postage. So I sent it away and they did the deed.



This afternoon me and the boy (yes Mother I know it is bad grammar), fitted the new units, after testing they would work of course!

The result is great! We now have yellow blinkers in the tail lights and both the blinkers and brakes are much brighter than the original.

Here's a tip for you, if you buy a set and get them to change to suit your wiring, that has been modified like mine. They don't tell you but the long black crossover wire becomes the brake light wire and needs to be fed through a new hole in the tail light unit, which you need to drill.

The units do not blink with the same rhythm as the old blinkers and they do some strange brake flicking as you change the from left to right. But these idiosyncracies aside, the result is very good. The lights are very bright and unmissable, well done Mustang Project!

Holley 4150 and sealing fuel lines properly



I spent all week thinking about what the hell is wrong with the new Holley set up . . .
In the meantime decided to get rid of the hard chrome fuel pipes and buy a braided line unit which would not be so rigid and fussy to seal.

A scrounge around the internet forums left me confused as to how to seal the fuel lines properly. There were all sorts of peculiar answers and remedies including using teflon tape on the threads (a total waste of time if you know anything about how they seal), putting little zinc washers into the end of the pipe to squash for a seal to putting little thing fuel resistant O rings in the brass fittings.

All of these "fixes" are supposed to have worked for those who spruik them, but what troubled me is the total lack of reference to anything like them by Holley. I refused to believe the people who make the carbs would not supply a washer/tape/O ring if you needed one to stop leaks. So I had a chat to a racing mechanic who suggested I grease the lines before tightening. "I know" he said, "the fuel will melt the grease, I just have always done it and it always works. I do not know why"

So I had a good think and used the technique to stop the fuel leaks. It worked!
Here's how I stopped the fuel line leaks at the carburettor.

Undo the brass fitting in the carb, put it gently in a vise and then you can screw in the fuel line. Being in the vise you can get a good look at it and be sure it is going in straight. Put a little grease on the thread and on the end of the pipe before you screw it in. I think the grease enables the hard metal edges to slide together tightly without distortion of the metal where they meet.

Once the pipe is tightened nice and straight, you can pull it apart and check to see if you have a nice even score around the seat or if there are breaks. If not happy, just regrease and tighten up again, back it off a tad and rotate the pipe to score a micro lip.

When happy with the connection, undo and refit to the carby. Make sure they are going on straight and don't forget the grease.

I pulled the carb off and checked the seal around the phenolic spacer. It appeared to have leaked so put new gaskets in and tightened it up . . . the book says 5 Ft/Lbs but I reckon that just is not tight enough. So I cranked it by hand till I felt it was tight, in a cross pattern.




After some fiddling it finally started and ran very rich. I leaned up the mixture and got it running quite well. The stang is a new beast with this high breathing, big squirting Holley, it has loads more acceleration and jumps from 70 to 90 MPH in a heartbeat.

Still is a bugger to start when it is cold, backfires and carries on, till it starts and then runs flawlessly. Think I better go have a carby expert look at setting it up using the right gear to get the mixtures right.